Roma Travellers, crime, and poverty! There has seldom been a country that has suffered the brunt of British propaganda quite like Romania. Thanks to this, my latest European adventure was filled with some trepidation; however, this wasn’t warranted. A forward-facing country in the midst of modernising, Romania is a nation bursting at the seams with art, culture, and cafes.

Braving a fraught flight filled with storms and turbulence, our starting destination for Romania was its largest city and capital, Bucharest. Once the seat of Ceausescu power, the scars of its communist days still linger in the concrete metropolis. Not your typical romantic getaway, the city greets you with row upon row of communist-style blocs and sprawling thoroughfares. Peer beyond this ugly façade, however, and you’ll find plenty of beauty, from the opulence of Calea Victoriei to the pockets of history that survived the communist purge, such as the 18th-century Stavropoleos monastery and the gorgeous neo-classically designed CFC palace.

As well as being a population hub, Bucharest also makes a great starting point for reaching the rest of the country, and it was from its typically communist-style train station that we set off on a journey towards Transylvania and to the city of Braşov. Worlds apart from the capital, Braşov has managed to keep the majority of its historical charm. Set between forested hills, the old town is quaint and littered with mediaeval buildings of many different colours.

It was whilst in Braşov that we learnt just how good Romanian hospitality could be. In restaurants, cafes, and on tours, the staff would often come and ask us where we’d come from with a genuine interest in the answer. Wherever we went in Romania, the locals always went the extra mile and were some of the friendliest people we’ve encountered on our travels.

Despite its historical heart and wonderful people, many know Braşov for a different reason entirely. Not only Braşov but the entire region of Transylvania has become synonymous with Stoker’s Dracula legend. As you might expect, this translates to more than a few tacky souvenirs, and in Braşov you’ll find plenty but this pales in comparison to where the legend is at its apex, Bran Castle.

Perched atop a sheer cliff face with unforgiving impenetrable walls, the castle certainly gives off the perfect gothic horror vibes. Unfortunately, many will be disappointed to know that the castle itself has little to do with Dracula or the tyrannical leader Vlad Tepeş. Nobody truly knows the castle that inspired Stoker to write his horrifying masterpiece, and Bran Castle is only one of a handful of candidates for the position.

The disappointment in discovering the castle’s lack of mythical origins doesn’t last long as the castle has an impressive history in its own right. According to our guide, Tibeiru, the castle played an important role in Romania’s reunification. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the castle served as a summer residence for King Ferdinand and his wife Queen Marie Alexandra. It was because of this castle and the people of Romania that Marie Alexandra made impassioned pleas to the governments at Versailles, eventually leading to an independent Romania.

From Brașov, the Romanian adventure continued as we got deeper into Transylvania, across the mountains to the city of Sibiu. A city of mixed Romania and Germanic heritage, their influences can be felt across the city, from its Saxon-style abodes to its Lutheran cathedral. For those wishing to get a fuller picture of the city and region, visiting the Crama Sibiul Vechi restaurant is a must, as it offers all the local delicacies with a historic ambience. Sibiu is also a relative cultural behemoth, playing host to several art galleries and museums. The world-renowned Brukenthal Museum is just one of its many highlights and includes exhibits on everything from Renaissance art to local opera.

Within the wider region, forests and mountains hide many secret treasures. To the east, Corvin Castle offers the gothic horror aesthetic with a history to match. Bloody battles, torture, and even curses are interwoven deep within its stone walls. The fact that the prison and torture chambers are located so close to the entrance tells you exactly the type of place Corvin Castle was. Also to the east lies Alba Lulia, a fortress and the former seat of Romanian royalty. The sense of unification lies heavily here. Within the fort, the country’s religions stand side by side, each paying respects to the nation’s great unifiers.

Sideshow descriptions

1. Nighttime in Sibiu
2. The Courtyard of Corvin Castle
3. A Colourful Street in Sighişoara
4. Romania’s unifier, Marie Alexandra
5. The Clock Tower, Sighişoara

To Sibiu’s north, as the level landscape begins to ascend, Transylvania turns more traditional. While en route to Sighişoara, we got our one and only stereotypical view of Roma Travellers: horse, cart, and caravan included. Alongside these stereotypical examples, we also saw how modern travellers live. Their abodes stand out from the crowd—palatial and ornate; they were created this way to avoid tax laws.

After a substantial climb, the road eventually leads to Sighişoara. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it stands as the last remaining fully preserved fortified town. The town is an impressive site; its defensive towers dominate the skyline, huddling the ancient cobbled streets beneath that have been occupied since Roman times.

Bidding farewell to Sibiu after three days, a long and uncomfortable train journey took us back to our starting point in Bucharest. With one day left in the capital, it gave me time to reflect on a journey filled with unexpected surprises. If my trip to Romania has taught me anything, it’s that you should never judge somewhere you’ve never been to. Romania is fantastic; it’s a nation filled with beauty, culture, and ultimately wonderful people.