Travelling towards Canyon de Chelly, the drive through the reservation towards Ganado was dicey. The snow, which had been forecasted for later in the day, had started falling earlier and heavier than expected. Having already had the weather curtail my activities in the Petrified Forest National Park, I was determined to ensure that this part of the journey wasn’t wasted under a blanket of snow. Fortunately, it wouldn’t be long before things started to improve.

Approaching the first significant town since entering Navajo country, things had calmed, offering the perfect moment to explore once more.

Located on the outskirts of Ganado, the Hubbell Trading Post makes for a great little side quest. A short distance down a less-than-ideal dirt track, this frontier outpost-like building looked even more authentic and remote with a fresh dusting of snow. Preserved with all of its original features, it wasn’t hard to visualise the hardened soldiers, explorers, and Native Americans who came to trade, buy, and sell their various wares.

Today, the National Monument is split into two distinct areas. Hoping to improve my understanding of the post’s importance, I started by paying a visit to the small yet insightful history museum. Contrary to what is quite often a bleak and upsetting history, especially around the time of the trading post, Hubbell was a rare place of peace in the region. This came down to the friendship between John Lorenzo Hubbell, a trader, and Ganado Mucho, a Navajo leader. Together, they developed a famous patterned rug design known as “Ganado Red”, which helped stimulate and expand Navajo trade after their return from their 10-year exile.

It is within the Trading Post section of the monument, however, where all the magic still happens. Hand-crafted bowls, rugs and all manner of assorted items fill shelves, walls and even the ceiling in this labyrinthine three-room shop.

Unfortunately, I didn’t quite have the guts to get the rug pictured above as a souvenir. Despite its “Ganado Red” authenticity, the price tag in the thousands was enough to ensure that my chequebook stayed closed!